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It's important to choose a display that can be disassembled easily and won't have any inconvenient electronics in the way.

Size does matter. LCD size will affect the lenses required and obviously the size of the completed enclosure. This beauty has a contrast ratio of and a.

The screen has a x native resolution, so it will display p natively. The built in scaler supports input as well. We have to give props to the guys that are using the WXGA screen that's usually only found in laptops to achieve native resolution.

There was enough interest for these that they actually had a custom controller built to support it.

More importantly, our LCD accepts almost any input. We should be able to hook up just about any HD gear we want to this display.

We run standard definition video through our video scaler , but there's just not a good way to push a HD signal into the PC from an external tuner like our HD Tivo.

To maximize the light aimed at the screen, we'll add a reflector just behind the bulb. Some use Ikea napkin holders, but we opted for this reflector from Lumenlab.

It's coated with a dichroic material that reflects visible light, but allows infrared heat to pass through.

The light source is a Watt Metal Halide bulb. You can score these at the hardware store, but for the best color we want one that puts out light that's a similar to daylight as possible.

That means a bulb with a color temperature of Kelvin and hopefully an even spectral output. The Mogul base of our MH bulb is quite a bit bigger than the average light bulb.

To ignite a Metal Halide bulb, some interesting voltages are needed. To produce them we'll need a ballast.

These things come in a few flavors. The coil type are cheap, but produce a humming noise that might interfere with your viewing pleasure.

Electronic ballasts are preferred because they'll protect the bulb better and don't produce annoying noise. They shipped it five minutes after we ordered!

We didn't expect it, but our ballast came with a ceramic Mogul base. Back to our diagram we see that the LCD is sandwiched between a pair of Fresnel lenses.

The lenses need to be at least the size of the LCD, if not bigger. The only source we could find with big enough Fresnel lenses is Lumenlab. Other unpurified waters, like tap water or spring water, will leave an unwanted residue on your screens due to their mineral contents.

Making this screen-cleaning spray couldn't be easier. Simply combine one part alcohol and one part distilled water in the spray bottle.

Cap it, give it a quick shake, and it's ready for use. Variation: If you don't have isopropyl alcohol handy, you may substitute plain vinegar.

Be warned, though, the scent won't be very pleasant, and this alternative solution does take a little longer to dry.

Note: Please consult your product manual before using this homemade spray. Some manufacturers advise against using alcohol on their products, due to oleophobic coatings.

I basically turned the mounting bracket sideways so I could get it into the hole in the main piece, then straightened it out.

I made sure to keep it at the top of the rectangular hole and it stuck out quite far in the front of the main piece.

If the slits in the sides of the mounting brackets are too small and the fit is too tight, feel free to cut them a little larger so it fits nicely.

You can then add a few drops of glue to the sides of it and to the area where the box is folded outward holding it up. This just makes it even more secure.

Once everything is solid and dry, you can then attach the main pieces to the body. First, attach the two main side pieces with the wings to the mounting brackets at the slots.

If you need to make the slots larger to make it fit well, you can do that. It's a good idea to add a couple drops of glue to secure it where the mounting bracket meets the main pieces.

Then let it dry. Lastly, the wiring is actually very simple. You'll see on the pattern piece that there is a circle on the pattern to show the center of the long cardboard piece that goes along the middle of the antenna.

Use your pattern to mark that spot on your two main winged pieces. Then, use a drill to make two holes through those spots.

Then the screws will need to be put through those holes. Then, take out your transformer which has the coax plug on one side and twin lead on the other.

Take the twin lead wires - place washers on the back side of where the screws were put through the cardboard, then attach one of the wires from the transformer and tighten it on with a bolt.

Do the same for the other side with the screw. You'll now have the transformer hanging there - and ready to be plugged in! Take it over to your TV and plug in your coaxial cable to the other end of the transformer.

Take the other end of the coax and plug it into your TV antenna spot. That's it!!! You are done! This antenna is amazing and completely surpassed all my expensive store-bought ones!

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! This project saved me a lot of money and I no longer have to deal with the old antenna problems and annoyances.

I had a lot of issues with my antenna s and now I know I can make more of these and this can be modified for my other TVs in the house.

Let me know how yours turn out too! Very cool! Does it matter what side of the foil you glue down - the shinny side or the dull side?

Reply 7 years ago on Step 7. I glued the shiny side of the wings to the cardboard and the dull side of the main back piece to the cardboard and it still works great.

I think it doesn't matter because it's the fact that it's metal that picks up the signal. Reply 4 years ago. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction.

It may not look as cool as this or other homemade HDTV antennas, but you can save yourself the cost of buying anything new and the work it takes to put one of these things together by simply taking a spare coaxial cable and cutting about 8 inches of insulation off the end so you have the center wire exposed.

Then move it around until you get the best reception. You will not believe it until you try it, but this works better than any other antenna I have ever used for over-the-air digital TV.

I have removed the insulation from about a dozen or so coaxial cables for friends and families over the past 4 years and they are all still using them because they work better than anything else.

I would make an indestructible for this, but it's so easy I couldn't explain it any better except to take a picture of it. I will say that it can be hard to slide the entire 8 inches of insulation off the end all at once so just cut an inch or two of the insulation at a time and it comes off pretty easily.

Try it and you will be surprised how well it works. What do you have to lose? Reply 11 months ago. I agree. This the best method and cost.

It works much better than those you buy. But length is the key to reception. Tried this with minimal results. It did provide the 3 closest channels to me all PBS but no "real" channels.

I also tried another idea from the internet - connecting the exposed center coax wire to a grounded switch plate screw and got 2 more channels uses the grounded electrical system as an antenna.

The bow-tie worked great got all 9 local stations-farthest 75 miles away and I recommend to all. Reply 2 years ago.

I am going to try this to see if I can improve on my reception, I am going to use some heavier materials than cardboard to see if it will stand up to being outside better.

Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. Do I need a digital converter box or is this coaxial cable only attached to TV?

We're not going to feel guilty for it either, we know what we like. But if your wallet is a little light from your last Engadget inspired shopping session you might dig our how-to latest project.

In Today's how-to, we'll start taking a look at building your own HD projector This isn't one to be missed. Building your own projector isn't a new idea.

Disassemble a desktop LCD display, put a really, really bright light behind it and add some optics and voila!

The real question: is it worth it? Since you might be a little leery of dropping several hundred dollars on parts and gutting a nice display because people you don't know on an online forum said so, we're going to do it for you.

If you're hell-bent on doing all the research yourself, there are couple of places to check out. Lumenlab recently made access to their forums free.

Alternatively, The DIYaudio forum users have some interesting ideas. Lumenlab has put together a nice document describing the details. We'll give you our short version here.

The design is really quite simple. The light source is reflected towards the LCD. Another Fresnel focuses the light towards the projection lens.

The LCD is key to the project. The latest crop of LCDs is cheaper and better than ever. Notably, the contrast ratio has been increasing.

It's important to choose a display that can be disassembled easily and won't have any inconvenient electronics in the way.

Size does matter. LCD size will affect the lenses required and obviously the size of the completed enclosure. This beauty has a contrast ratio of and a.

The screen has a x native resolution, so it will display p natively. The built in scaler supports input as well.

We have to give props to the guys that are using the WXGA screen that's usually only found in laptops to achieve native resolution.

There was enough interest for these that they actually had a custom controller built to support it. More importantly, our LCD accepts almost any input.

Instead, build a cheap, weird, but highly effective four-foot antenna, possibly with hardware you already have. With the different wall-mounted antennas I tried, I received 15 channels, and only two major HD networks.

You can run coaxial cable from the antenna to a TV or two, with a splitter and watch live HD television. This thing that looks like a prop from a conspiracy theory website works just like any antenna you can buy in a store, but better.

Flat-wall antennas often have one medium antenna pair, or two small pairs. Starting near the top, mark down two screw points, 1. Measure down the board nine inches, then place another two points, 1.

Now a different measure: 4. Put a washer over each point you marked, then lightly screw into each point, but not all the way. Leave enough room so that the washer can fit your wire underneath.

Cut a length of wire about 30 inches, or a bit more if you bought lots of it. Watch this part of the video. Starting from either bottom screw, your wire will cross over to the next screw up, run up through the next two screws, then cross over again to the top-most screw on the other side.

Repeat this for the other side, except: one of the wires at each cross-over point needs a bit of an arc, so that one wire can pass under the other without touching.

See that part of the video. Here is where you could use unbent wire coat hanger, if you cut them up.

You want the whiskers and the through-wires touching each other, under the gentle, conductive pressure of the washer. Screw each one down. Double-check that your whiskers have their tips 4.

These diagrams part one , part two , both PDFs detail the measurements and rules. They slightly disagree with our amiable Canadian video instructor, calling for 5.

The best possible setup for your antenna would be as high as possible inside your home, while still being a short distance from your TV.

Some manufacturers advise against using alcohol on their products, due to oleophobic coatings. If that's the case, only use distilled water, or reserve the alcohol-water spray for removing stubborn dirt.

Though excess use of alcohol-based cleaning sprays on oleophobic screens may remove their coatings, occasional is certainly acceptable. Editors' note : Updated on October 15, , to advise that some manufacturers recommend against alcohol-based cleaning solutions.

Be respectful, keep it civil and stay on topic. We delete comments that violate our policy , which we encourage you to read.

Discussion threads can be closed at any time at our discretion. Don't show this again.

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